Planning for tile installation

There are many things to be considered when planning a large tile project

Beginning a new building or remodeling project

If you are about to begin a new building or remodeling project that includes ceramic tile, it is important to give serious consideration to the tile installation from the beginning. This is especially important in the case of complex installations such as a custom designed shower.

Installation cost cannot be estimated simply on a square foot basis

We are often asked to provide an installation quotation for a project that is well underway, and for which virtually no consideration has been given to the complexity of the project from a tile installation standpoint.  Steps, bench seats, shelves, and niches, etc. in a large shower or for a spa tub deck are some of the features often desired. In addition to these, fancy decorative tiles may be wanted around the walls. With all these things there is a certain level of difficulty and time involved for the tile contractor who is to do the installation, and each element must be considered when working up the cost estimate. Even the tile itself is a factor, as different tiles may be more difficult to install, or require different methods. These things will all have to be known by a tile contractor in advance of working up a cost estimate.

Having a figure in mind that is based on the square foot total of an installation, a client is often surprised, then, to find that the project will cost far more than the budget will allow, and may be forced to either make drastic changes in the project, substantially scaling it back (at additional expense), or come up with the additional amount beyond the planned budget allowance. This is unfortunately an all too common scenario in our experience.

Therefore, some thought needs to be given to what’s involved in a project before construction begins, while still in the planning stages. It would be wise to consult with a tile contractor early on.

If we are doing the installation, and we are also providing your tile, we will be happy to assist you with the planning of your project, as part of our service.

When choosing a tile for your project, find out what trim pieces are available in the particular tile line. This means edge trim pieces such as a “bull nose” tile (a tile with one rounded over edge or corner, for finishing an edge that will show), counter edge pieces commonly called “V Cap” or simply “counter edge”, and corner and end pieces for chair rails, etc. Not all tile groups have all trim pieces available. In some groups, there are no available trim pieces. Often, someone will want to use floor tile on the walls of a shower. This is okay as long as the trim pieces are available to finish exposed edges. If they are not available, a metal or plastic edge made for this purpose will have to be used.

Accent pieces, such as chair rail moldings, listellos, rope liners and such, can add beauty and elegance to a project, but can also be very expensive, and use of very many of them will add considerably to the material cost as well as adding to the labor price of the installation, because they are very time consuming and sometimes difficult to install.

The trim that you need will depend on the project, and your imagination.  In general, any time that there is an exposed end of a row of tile (such as an outside corner) the edge will have to be finished with a bull nose. The size of the bull nose available will depend on the particular tile line or group. In an 8 x 10 inch tile, for example, a 3 x 8 inch bull nose is common. Listellos and other decorative pieces often do not have available any pieces for finishing the end of a row. A chair rail molding usually will have an end cap available.

It’s also usually best to stick to tile that is all from the same tile line.  This is because tiles from different lines may vary in actual size, as well as in thickness, making it difficult (and sometimes impossible) to make them work together.

Remember: The more corners and decorative accents you incorporate in your project, the more costly the project, both in terms of material and labor.

Nothing is ever straight, level, plumb or square

In a perfect world our walls would be perfectly plumb, that which should be level would be perfectly so, and corners would be square and 45 degree angles perfect as well. However, in the real world this is never the case; so, don’t count on corners of walls being absolutely plumb, or surfaces perfectly level.  This is rarely the case even with the best builders.  Bathtubs are not usually perfectly level either; but, for a tile installation, especially for a custom shower installation or a Jacuzzi tub deck, things need to be as close to perfect as possible. Things will look pretty bad if you’re trying to fit tile to 45 degree corners that are out of plumb. If we are doing your installation, we will check these things, and ask your contractor to correct anything that isn’t just about perfect, if it’s something that can be fixed. Obviously, he isn’t going to tear out any walls for us, but for knee walls around a shower, and walls around Jacuzzi tubs, if the tile installation is going to look good (and we certainly want it to), out of plumb and out of square cannot be tolerated. It has to be nearly perfect.

Remember: Expect to have cut tiles in the corners of shower walls or any other wall corners, for that matter. This allows for corners that aren't going to be absolutely plumb or straight, no matter what anyone does.  It just doesn't happen very often.

Additionally, don’t expect a tile contractor to compensate for a bad framing job with thin set (the mortar used for setting tile). We have run into contractors that think we can fix everything by using more thin set under the tile here and there. This just doesn’t work, and it simply makes the job much more difficult, and with poor results. In some installations, we may not be using thin set, but a tile adhesive instead. In any case, there is more labor involved in trying to correct for someone else’s poor workmanship, and we will be forced to adjust the price of the installation. In most cases, we won’t even attempt to compensate, but will insist that the offending out of plumb framing be fixed by the contractor.

The picture below is an example of how the framing should look for a spa tub deck. It is well built, plumb and square, and offers plenty of support for the tub. The surrounding deck is covered with 3/4" plywood, upon which we will install 1/2" Hardibacker™ tile backer board.

In addition, when planning a project, don’t plan on an exact count of the number of trim pieces you may think you need. You can count on having to cut tiles at all corners, and the top and bottom of a wall. Usually you will need extras. Just how many extra pieces of each piece of trim, etc. that you need, will depend on what you plan to do with it.

A Word About Promotional Tile

If you’ve been to the local “big box” home improvement store, you have probably seen the stacks of tile with a very attractive price, under $1.00/SF. These are their “promotional” tiles. I would recommend avoiding these tiles, as they are of very poor quality. They are of soft clays with considerable “lippage” (corners or edges turned up) and often quite warped. The glazes on these tiles are thin, and the tiles themselves are very thin. They are easily chipped, and will crack if not installed with the utmost care, so it is absolutely necessary to achieve the maximum coverage of mortar under these tiles. In no case should these tiles be installed without a cementitious backer board set properly into a mortar bed. They simply will not hold up. The store personnel will not tell you this. They are there to sell them. If you want a lasting floor that you can be proud of, stay away from these tiles.

The term “builders grade” is also used to categorize a tile of lesser quality, though it may be better than the promotional tiles found in the home improvement stores.